The Hang Son Doong cave complex in Phong Nha – Ke Bang National Park, located in Son Trach, Bo Trach district in the Quang Binh province of Vietnam is one of the largest natural caves ever found in the world. It was first discovered by a peasant named Ho Khanh. In 1991, he happened to take shelter in this cave while looking deep into the forest.

For anyone who loves wanderlust or loves to get lost in nature, Son Doong cave is a dream destination and a milestone that you might want to experience at least once. Ever since the Son Doong cave became accessible to tourists and grew famous all over the world, I have always dreamed about going on this journey.

More than 10 years since the day I put the words “Son Doong” on my bucket list, I finally got the opportunity to turn that dream into reality. The $3,000 ticket price is not small, and the waiting period from 1-3 years might be a very long time for pretty much anyone. Besides, the exploration schedule is very demanding in terms of one’s health, spirit, as well as respect for nature. Also, I was the youngest in a group of 10 guests on this trip to Son Doong 51 in 2022.

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The weather in May is so nice. It’s very beautiful and perfect to travel

For me, Son Doong has been a dream that I have pursued for 10 years. In September 2021, when the COVID-19 epidemic was becoming serious in Vietnam and around the world, I came across an announcement about the schedule to explore Son Doong in 2022. Due to the impact of the epidemic, tourists from all over the world could not travel to Vietnam. So, if I bought a ticket at that time, I wouldn’t have to wait long (2 or 3 years) but only 8-9 months. In 2023, I will be 30 years old, which is considered “old” in Vietnam, so I wanted to fulfill my dream before reaching this milestone. I made the decision quickly and used all the savings I had at that time to buy the ticket and confirm the date.

During the 9 months of waiting, I had no job and no income, but it wasn’t too bad. I had more time to work out and do cardio at home, lose weight, and learn more about Son Doong through vlogs and experiences shared by past visitors. As a person who loves sports, I understood the importance of preparing myself physically for the journey to conquer Son Doong. I focused on building good physical strength, improving my breathing endurance, and strengthening my leg and shoulder muscles.

As we go towards the cave, there’s a rock in a small stream, with a natural big hole inside

We made a joke that anyone passing through must throw the pebbles into the hole – it’s considered “buying a ticket” to cross the stream.

After some hours of trekking in the forest, we could see the entrance to Hang Én

You will wake up to welcome the new day with the sound of birds chirping. The journey to discover the En Cave right after contained stalactites that were aged up to millions of years. These stalactites are formed in the cave by water droplets flowing down from the cave’s dome.

These tiny towers were created by nature, mainly just water and sand

“Sandy towers” are formed from water droplets falling from the ceiling of the cave, and drifting sand. The parts that are blocked by pebbles and stones are still standing.

Inside Hang Én, we could see a “small beach” with a sandbank and green water.

We can see a natural sandbar divided into two separate sides of the green lake. One side of the water is warm and there are some massage-fish under the water, the other is extremely cold.

The first doline where the sun can shine through. On a foggy day, every rock sparkles

Regardless of the direction, there was always a deep abyss behind. When people tremble, their instinct is to shrink their bodies. However, in reality, to climb the mountain, you need to spread your legs shoulder-width apart and lean back, embracing the darkness you fear. Just hold on tightly and know where to place each small step, and you will overcome it.

The journey to discover Son Doong requires technical roping in the cave almost every day. A team of expert safety assistants creates rope systems that allow visitors to utilize their hand strength and foothold grip to navigate challenging passages. To enter the cave, you must descend down a smooth and slippery cliff, and to exit, you have to ascend the Vietnam Wall—a 90m high smooth stalactite wall that goes from steep to 90 degrees in alternating sections. Throughout the journey, there are numerous instances of swinging across the underground river in darkness and ascending cliffs that overlook deep abysses.

It is said that crossing the Vietnam Wall is the most heart-stopping part of the journey. The stones are submerged in cold water, resembling a slippery greased pan, testing the determination of the travelers’ hands and feet. In front lies a vertical abyss, while behind is a deep blue lake. Avoid looking up or down, and instead, focus on every step, every breath. Clear your mind of all thoughts, eliminate fear and noise, and rely solely on your hands and silence.

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The sunbeams make everything look like heaven

I didn’t have any specific expectations; I simply wanted to enjoy every moment. However, the actual experience surpassed anything I could have imagined. The cave was surrounded by limestone formations of various shapes and sizes, and its arch resembled the ceiling of a church. Looking into the distance, I saw a breathtaking garden reminiscent of Eden, with a misty backdrop during the afternoon and a sky sprinkled with stars like shards of glass at night. Each morning, as I woke up in the cave and gazed at the doline, I eagerly awaited the moment when a beam of light would penetrate the cave, illuminating the emerald-green lake and creating a scene reminiscent of a pathway to heaven. The nights in the cave were silent and filled with echoes, where even the sound of a single droplet of water could be heard. It was said that sometimes, between 3 and 4 am, the flapping of wings from a giant bird could be heard within the cave. Being in Son Doong made me feel as if I had stepped back millions of years into a fairytale-like existence.

More landscape in the cave at the second part of the doline

From the other side of the mentioned doline, we can see the sun heating the fog inside

Fortunately, I did not encounter any wild animals during my time in the cave. Often, when we think of caves, we associate them with darkness, confusion, and inconvenience, much like the dwellings of “ancient people.” However, in reality, caves can serve as safe havens, providing shelter from extreme weather conditions and wild animals.

At this part, I realized how long the trekking path inside the cave actually is

Compare the size of this cave with a person

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When it comes to Son Doong, it’s important to prepare yourself with some knowledge of trekking skills, even though you’ll have guides and experts accompanying you throughout the journey. This will allow you to be proactive, keep up with the group, and avoid unnecessary mistakes. Currently, the Son Doong cave exploration tour requires the most preparation prior to the trip. It’s not just about packing the right gear and taking care of your health; you also need to approach it with a high level of determination, understanding that this is a journey of experiencing and reconnecting with nature. Additionally, take the time to thoroughly read the travel schedule, so you know where you’ll be going each day and can actively observe, take photos, and fully immerse yourself in the experience. It’s also beneficial to learn a bit about the geological structure and vegetation of the area, as this will enhance your own personal discoveries during the trip.

A giant bell-shaped stalactite

The signature of Son Doong otherwise known as ‘the wedding cake’ can be seen from the other viewpoint

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This is the exit of Hang Én. It is 120m high and 140m wide

I took a long exposure picture with the “Sơn Đoòng” letters in the middle of the night inside the cave

Honestly, what Son Doong gave me was very wonderful. The journey to explore the cave was not too burdensome and risky, but it required endurance, flexibility, and a little bit of strength. In the dark caves and sacred forests, there were many things I had never seen before such as leeches, poisonous leaves, itchy leaves, mud, bees, spiders, slippery rocks, wading through the mud… I accepted these things as part of the wildlife. No panic, no suspense, and no fancy expectations.

After 4 days of climbing, and trekking, I realized that it was my personal fear that prevented my progress, not the sharp, steep cliffs or the rushing water. I used to be someone who was afraid of a leg injury, afraid of losing money, afraid of losing a job, and afraid of people judging me… Perhaps, this is an opportunity for me to listen to myself and strengthen my connection with nature and the homeland of heaven…

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