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“Smile! You’re In Makkah” I Went To Islam’s Holiest Cities On An American Passport, And This Is What I Saw.
As Ramadan comes to a close, with (sadly) plenty of violence and conflict showing up in the news, I wanted to show a glimpse of the more mundane (but hopefully not boring) day-to-day lives of ordinary people who live in- and go on pilgrimage to- Makkah (Mecca) and Medinah, Islam’s two holiest cities. The Kaaba (around which Masjid Haram, the largest mosque in the world, is built) in Makkah and the Prophet’s Mosque in Medinah are have already been heavily photographed, but what about the diverse people there, speaking many different languages with many different cultures, cuisines and customs? What about the miswak (a palm-root used to brush one’s teeth) for sale and the street cats and- unfortunately I didn’t get any photos- the date-seed coffee? Supermarkets with cardamom-flavored gum and alcohol-free halal beer? People obviously worship, but they also eat, sleep, trade and socialize.
Saudi Arabia is not an easy place to shoot photos. It is very difficult to include half of the worshippers -the women- in one’s portrayal of the story, because of a combination of Arab custom and the Islamic sense of modesty. The sun is brighter and hotter than anywhere I’ve ever been. Still, I hope that these photos- with all their imperfections and quirks- will help people see a more ordinary, average day in the Muslim world.
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Discussing miswak with a Saudi brother. It tastes a little more acidic than toothpaste, but good overall.
Two cleaners of the Prophet’s Mosque, Medinah.
Smile! You’re in Makkah
A dancing Saudi man photobombs a shot in Medinah. I showed him this photo and we both got a good laugh out of it.
A backstreet in Medinah, full of immigrants from various countries. The name of Allah is written on the windshield of the truck.
Two Afghan brothers show their country’s flag.
Crossing a road in Medinah.
A woman sells lentils, wheat and other dry foods, Medinah.
Just outside of Masjid Haram, a cafe serves Desi and international food and, more importantly, drinks.
A man looks down from Mt. Arafat, just outside of Makkah.
A man walks up towards one of the many hotels in Makkah.
A cat walks into a hotel as pilgrims from Turkey check in, Makkah.
People take shelter from the sun under a bridge, Makkah. The writing says “There is no god but Allah, and Muhammad is the Messenger of Allah.”
An Indonesian pilgrim in his national dress. (I just had to take his photo with a cool hat like that.)
Archers’ Hill, Uhud, Medinah. The Battle of Uhud was nearly lost by the early Muslims because of the mistakes of the archers who stationed on this hill.
Miswak sellers, Makkah.
People walking to and from Masjid Haram.
A boy walks past religious graffiti, Makkah.
Before praying, worshippers perform a ritual wash, like this man outside of Masjid Haram.
A gem seller looks at his merchandise, Medinah.
Trading at an open-air market in Medinah.
Clothes and prayer rugs for sale in a market in Medinah.
Many Muslim men wear stones set in silver- but not gold- like the ones on display here in Makkah.
Pilgrims from Southeast Asia in Medinah. The spray painted arrow on the column points to the Prophet’s Mosque.
“Love is Life”- English-language graffiti in Makkah.
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