The fast fashion industry is one of the biggest markets worldwide. According to the Fast Fashion Global Market Report in 2023, the estimated value of the industry was a whopping $122.98 billion. Economists expect it to grow to $142.06 billion in 2024. When there's so much money involved, one has to think: how can this be sustainable?

A not-for-profit organization, Fashion Revolution, has published its Fashion Transparency Index ever since 2017. They're interested in how much information brands disclose about their business practices. The 2023 report points out that the progress towards sustainable fashion is still too slow. 

28% of the world's largest clothing brands still fall under the organization's rating range of 0-10%. Some statistics are worth celebrating, too. For example, more and more major brands disclose their supplier lists. Fashion Revolution reports that the percentage is currently more than half – 52%.

However, there's a lot to still be sad about. Almost half (45%) of the major clothing brands disclose close to nothing about their practices. 80% don't report their production volumes, making it hard to determine global overproduction. And almost all (99%) brands don't disclose their commitment to reduce the number of new items they produce. 

The main aspect of fast fashion that most people tend to focus on is that workers are usually getting less than the minimum wage. Fashion Revolution reports that only 1% of major fashion brands disclose how many workers get living wages.

Did you know that we can find hazardous chemicals in our clothes? Because they're so cheap, fast fashion items might be making us sick. There are all kinds of harmful chemicals in our clothes, like the hormone-disruptor BPA, lead, PFAS, and phthalates.

Some of these, like tributyl phosphate, dimethyl fumarate, and disperse dyes, can cause skin reactions and worsen asthma symptoms. What makes it hard to test is the secrecy of fast fashion companies. According to the 2023 Fashion Transparency Index, only 7% of brands publish their supplier wastewater results.

Why do so many people buy fast fashion items? Because it's cheap and easily accessible. Some people even say that being a sustainable fashion lover is a privilege; not everyone can afford to buy only sustainable fashion items. However, some proponents of sustainability claim that this is a myth.

Ethical Brand Directory admits that sustainable fashion can often be pricier than its fast fashion counterparts. "Most of their clothes are substantially more expensive than a Primark alternative, but for good reasons: they guarantee an ethical and sustainable peace of mind for the buyer."

But there's also another side of the coin. Back in the day, when we didn't know what fast fashion was, our clothes were sturdier. With fast fashion came clothes that were bad in quality and not long-lasting. Then there's the plastic microfibre problem. Fast fashion brands use materials like polyester and nylon for their clothes. One washing machine load of these synthetics can release millions of microplastics into the world.

Well, it all sounds bad, but what can we do about it? It's hard to know where to start when you're bombarded with sustainability pledges from H&M and Zara on one side and zero-waste influencers on the other. Should we renounce clothes altogether?

The Mindful Monday Method might be a good place to start. It's a technique by influencer, illustrator, journalist, and author of "Why Don’t I Have Anything To Wear?" Andrea Cheong. 

Her method has five steps. First, you evaluate your wardrobe. You go through the clothes in your closet and decide which ones you don't like and why. It can be because of the fit, color, texture, or maybe even the retailer. This step might also help in figuring out a capsule wardrobe.

"Anytime you're leaving the house, take a photo in the mirror, save it on your phone, and once you've got about eight outfits, that is your capsule wardrobe. Count how many items you mix and match from what you already have," Cheong explained to Vogue.

Then, it's time to decide how much money you're willing to spend on clothes. Also, take into account how much you're spending right now and whether you're happy with the sum. Some people might decide only to buy second-hand, while others might opt for sustainable brands that offer pricier clothing. Cheong herself says she nowadays mostly buys vintage: "I think this is more meaningful."

That's where the third step comes in: decide on your sustainability goal. Your decision can range from zero waste to even only buying sustainable luxury brands. Cheong says that it might be hard to define or stick to your goal, as social media might exert its influence.

"This has so much to do with what social media shows us and peer pressure. We have to be mindful [of] how we speak about consumption with each other, as opposed to always asking, 'What are you wearing? Did you buy anything new?'"

The last step is to think about the composition and quality of the clothes you buy. Doesn't matter if they come from a second-hand shop or a fast fashion retailer. Cheong helps people recognize what fabrics are better quality and worth buying on her social media. "How does this match up to the price? Are we being greenwashed? It saves people money while innately being more environmentally conscious," Cheong said.